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Oniku Karyu

Our exclusive interviews with ROCOCO partner restaurants, chefs and sommeliers offer insights into their cuisine and passions in their own words.

17｜Oniku KaryuWagyu Kaiseki (Ginza)

Wagyu Sushi and Katsu Sandwiches:
Pushing the Boundaries of Kaiseki Cuisine

Located in the heart of Ginza, Oniku Karyu is a Michelin one-star restaurant that expresses Wagyu dishes through the lens of Kaiseki, a traditional multi-course Japanese meal. Since opening his first restaurant in 2006, Chef Haruka Katayanagi has continuously evolved his culinary philosophy and techniques. He established Oniku Karyu in 2016 as a celebration of Wagyu's depth and versatility.
Oniku Karyu’s signature dishes, such as Wagyu sushi, Wagyu katsu sandwiches, beef stew, and steak are more than just crowd favorites; they are the result of Chef Katayanagi’s years of dedication and training. The Wagyu katsu sandwich, in particular, is a standout. Every single detail of the dish, from the selection of the beef cut and the texture of the batter to the precise degree of toasting the bread reflect Chef Katayanagi’s relentless pursuit of perfection.
Interestingly, the signature dishes are served early in his course. It’s a deliberate choice, the chef explains: “I want to serve the joy of carbs while guests are still hungry,”. This confident, thoughtful and unorthodox pacing turns the flow of the course into a series of welcome surprises.
The name “Karyu” comes from the Zen phrase “Ryuuryoku Kakou Shinmeimoku,” which celebrates the unadorned beauty of nature. This philosophy informs every dish, every ingredient Chef Katayanagi serves, and every detail of his restaurant. The art within the space is carefully curated, with one whimsical centerpiece attracting particular attention—a charming ceramic figure called “Mayonnaise Fairy,” lovingly nicknamed Mayo-chan, created by artist Aika Tsumori. This “mascot daughter” is emblematic of the chef’s sense of humor and love for the unexpected.
Oniku Karyu is a place where the richness of Wagyu cuisine meets the refined hospitality and the meticulous attention to detail of Kaiseki. Here, care for each guest transforms their meal into an unforgettable experience.

From Doubt to Devotion: Chef Katayanagi’s Culinary Journey

Chef Katayanagi’s path to a Michelin-starred kitchen was far from conventional. After attending a general university, he first pursued music, only to abandon that dream due to an elbow injury. While working part-time in a hotel kitchen he discovered his true calling—and was gradually seduced by the depth, discipline, and creative potential of cooking as a vocation.
His passion for cuisine was also shaped by his father, who loved to cook. After work, his father would occasionally buy premium ingredients from department store food halls and prepare steaks for his family as a special treat. These fond memories instilled in Chef Katayanagi the idea that “meat is a celebration”—a belief that evolved into a deeper appreciation for Wagyu throughout his career.
Today, Chef Katayanagi’s kaiseki style reflects years devoted to understanding Wagyu on a deeper level—not just as an ingredient, but as an experience.

Transforming from a Shy Apprentice to a Charismatic Chef

Elegant Like Champagne: ROCOCO’s Harmony with Wagyu Cuisine

Chef Katayanagi first encountered ROCOCO at the 2019 Tabelog Awards party. He was immediately impressed by ROCOCO’s distinct ability to elevate dishes without overpowering them. He was also drawn to ROCOCO’s fine carbonation and elegant aroma, two qualities that reminded him of champagne. At that moment it became clear to him that ROCOCO wasn’t just another beer; it was a perfect opening drink.
“The bubbles are delicate, the aroma refined—not too strong. It naturally harmonizes with my food, which is exactly what I value,” he says.
Today, more and more guests choose ROCOCO to accompany their meals. Its balance and subtlety complement the nuanced flavors of Chef Katayanagi’s Wagyu kaiseki with finesse.
At Oniku Karyu, where tradition meets playfulness, ROCOCO fits right in—enhancing the experience without ever stealing the spotlight.